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How To Remove Cat Urine & Odors

When cats urinate as a means of elimination, they normally do it on a horizontal or flat surface like the ground or in a litterbox. When cats spray in order to mark their territory, they turn their backsides to the object, twitch their tails and spray urine on the vertical surface. See “How to Avoid Cat Urine Spraying”. But in both cases cat urine could come in contact with a carpet.

The cat’s urine is an amber-colored liquid waste fluid excreted by the kidneys and is composed of waste products of protein metabolism. The color of cat urine and its staining potential will often depend on dietary habits, age and sex of the cat, whether the cat is on medication, and the health of the cat. It can saturate absorbent materials such as padding, upholstery and mattresses.

The older cats have diminished renal function, thus producing urine that contains more plasma proteins. Because less uric acephalia is secreted in this urine, it is less likely to stain a carpet, but it will produce an even stronger odor.

Typically, because cat diets are richer in protein than dog diets, their urine will produce harsher odors and are more likely to cause stains.

Urine can saturate absorbent materials such as carpet and padding, upholstery and mattresses well beyond the surface area that can effectively be cleaned. It is extremely difficult to remove all of the urine from inside of these materials. Even after a thorough cleaning, stains and odors often remain. So here are a few things you can do to eliminate the odor.

How to clean cat urine from the carpet

Removing cat urine from your carpet can be one of the most difficult cleaning tasks, since it produces an especially persistent, unpleasant odor and amber-colored stains, so here are a few things you can do to eliminate them, when the “accident” has happened.

First, blot up as much of the urine as possible with a soft, clean white cloth or absorbent paper towel. Press down firmly (do not rub) for 30 seconds. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, the simpler it will be to remove the odor. Remove the towel and repeat the process until the area is fully dried. Rinse the "accident zone" thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting it up. Next, you have some options:


1. Baking soda works well to eliminate surface (but not deeply penetrated) odors. Dampen the area with clean water and then sprinkle baking soda over it. Rub the baking soda into the soiled area and let dry. Brush or vacuum to remove the dry material.


2. Another option is the white vinegar. Mix together 1 quart warm water and 1/2 cup white vinegar, and dribble the mixture onto the stain. Place dry towels over the stained area and put something heavy over the towels to increase the pressure. After some hours remove the towels and raise the nap of the carpet with a soft-bristled hairbrush. Note: Test the vinegar solution on a piece of fabric that is hidden from view - under the cushion or on the backside of the furniture.


3. To clean old or heavy stains in carpets, consider renting an extractor or wet-vac from a local hardware store. The extracting/wet-vac machines work like a vacuum cleaner and do the best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then forcing the dirty water back out again. When you use these machines, you should follow the instructions carefully.
Note: Don’t use any chemicals with these machines – they work much more effectively with plain water.


4.Another way for cleaning the cat urine from carpets was submitted from one of our visitors - Elaine Byrnes. She says that if you add a several drops of Listerine mouthwash to the water/perioxide mixture it helps a lot with the odor. In addition to a great cleaning solution, this is a safe pest spray for plants that are in and around children or pets.


5. One of the newest technologies for cleaning cat urine is to penetrate the soiled area and deactivate the odor with peroxide or detergents. Simply spray a product that consist a 3% hydrogen peroxide and wait about five minutes. After that use a clean white absorbent cloth, blot the area, pressing down firmly (do not rub) for 30 seconds. Repeat this blotting process until the area is dry. If the stain or odor persists, repeat the process.

Once the soiled area is really clean, you should use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Test the affected surface for staining first, and read and follow the instructions.

If the area still looks stained after it’s completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, apply a specialized stain and odor removing bacteria/enzyme cleaner, such as "Outright Pet Stain Eliminator," "Pet 'Oops' Remover," or "Stain Gobbler".

How to clean cat urine from your upholstery

When it is not possible to remove the cover of your couch or chair upholstery, observe the following cleaning procedures to get the cat urine out:

Dab stubborn stains with a soft, clean white cloth or absorbent paper towel. If solvents are required, avoid applying them directly onto the stain, and pour it onto a clean cloth. Clean the stain using a circular motion working from the outside inwards. After removing the stain, dry immediately with a hand held hairdryer using a cool setting. Take care to direct the air stream first towards the outside of the area working inwards. Always be careful to rub any stains gently and to use a brush with soft bristles.

How to clean cat urine from hardwood floors

Cat urine can harm your hardwood floor and can cause rotting. However, you might not be ready to replace your floor just yet, so here are a few things you can do to eliminate the odor. If you can catch the problem while it's still "fresh," you'll be better off.

Remove any excrement and blot the entire wet area immediately and firmly with paper towels. Wash affected area several times with white vinegar. Rinse stain thoroughly with warm water. Blot dry with paper towels. Apply a specialized stain and odor-removing bacteria or enzyme cleaner.
Tip: Read the instructions carefully before using these products and test them in an invisible area. If you can not remove some old stains, try sanding away the stain and resealing the wood.

You must be extra vigilant about cat odor and attack the problems as soon as it occurs. Also you should remove all traces of the odor, because if the scent remains, the cat will do it again in the same spot.

Tips for working from home

More and more companies and organizations not only allow but also encourage telecommuting. If your organization offers that option, you can use your mobile PC to be productive in the comfort of your home or another remote location. In this article, I discuss the tools of the trade and provide tips to ensure that the familiar home environment doesn't prevent you from keeping your focus and achieving your goals.

Tools of the trade
To efficiently telecommute, you'll need the following tools.

Internet access: Most teleworkers have access to the Internet at home so that they can connect to their corporate network. As a home user, you can choose from three Internet access options:

DSL: DSL stands for digital subscriber line. It uses ordinary telephone lines and a special modem to provide an Internet connection that can transmit high-bandwidth information to a user's computer. A DSL line can carry both data and voice signals. The data part of the line is a dedicated connection to the Internet and does not interfere with the use of the telephone. DSL is high speed and is always connected to the Internet.

Cable Internet: Cable Internet uses your local cable TV line to receive broadband Internet content. This data rate far exceeds that of modems and is about the same as DSL. Your local TV cable company is typically the cable Internet service provider.

Satellite Internet: If cable or DSL aren't available in your area, or if the slow dial-up access speeds are not acceptable, consider using satellite internet. It's available to you if you live in the northern hemisphere and have an unobstructed view of the southern sky. The service is expensive and the data rate is not as fast as a direct line, but it is a good connectivity alternative if you live in an isolated location.

Computer: Of course, you'll need a computer! You can use a desktop computer or a mobile PC. If you can take your mobile PC home from the office, you won't have to install the same programs on your desktop computer. If you do need to use a desktop computer to connect to your organization's network remotely, you may need to install additional software to meet your company's connectivity and security requirements.

Dedicated space with some privacy: I've heard more than one frustrated telecommuter state that they have a hard time focusing when they work at home. When I ask where their desktop computer or mobile PC is located, they usually say it's on the dining room table. By setting up your workspace in a busy location, you almost guarantee distractions. Instead, set up a safe, healthy, and efficient workspace with easy access to your computer, a phone, reference materials, and supplies.

Communication tools: When telecommuting, make sure that your colleagues, customers, and manager can communicate with you at all times. Whether you're in the office or working remotely, make it easy for people to contact you. Here are some suggestions:

Share your phone number with people you work with regularly and leave your contact information with your manager and one or two additional contacts (such as your administrative assistant or receptionist). Also, consider using call forwarding to your home or cell phone so that you receive incoming calls wherever you're working.

Consider using instant messaging (IM). Similar to a chat room, IM is a fast means of communicating with one or more people in real time over the Internet. IM also gives you a way to show and update your communication status throughout the day. For example, when you need a couple of hours of undisturbed concentration, set your status as "Busy" and let everyone know that you'll be slower than usual to reply to e-mail messages and phone calls.

Tips for staying focused
The tools of the trade don't guarantee success—you'll also need some strategies to help you stay focused.

Start working at the same time. Treat telework days like regular workdays: get up, get dressed, and be "at your desk" at the usual time.

Establish a schedule. Keep work hours similar to the ones you would keep if you were working at your office. Your manager and your co-workers appreciate knowing when you are available.

Limit distractions. Be careful not to replace office-based interruptions with home-based ones (such as children, neighbors, and friends).

Plan ahead. Take the appropriate work home. Some work may be better suited for the home office than other work, so be sure to plan the telework a day ahead.

Take breaks. Plan time to get up and move around. Consider going for a walk or a run during your lunch break to keep your mind fresh.

Focus on objectives. Work with your manager and colleagues to define clear goals and objectives against which your performance can be objectively measured.

Telecommuting is not for everyone, but if your job lends itself to working remotely and you are self-disciplined and highly motivated, you can reap the rewards of working effectively at home or remotely. Using the information presented in this column, you can take advantage of the opportunity to work efficiently away from the office while remaining in touch with your colleagues and customers.

Replacing Your Faucets With Ease

Step 1: Remove the Existing Fixture

Turn off the water supply at the valves under the sink or at the main water-supply valve. Loosen the supply tubes at the hot and cold valves. Use the basin wrench to loosen and remove the compression nut at the faucet stem. Remove the nut holding the faucet to the sink, and remove the faucet.

Step 2: Remove the Existing Pop-Up Drain

Remove the nut above the P-trap, and loosen the nut attached to the P-trap. Remove the P-trap. Remove the pop-up lever from the drain. Loosen the lock nut holding the drain to the sink. Unscrew the drain and the drain flange.

Step 3: Secure the Faucet to the Sink

Place Teflon paste or tape on the faucet stems. If your faucet has a rubber gasket, install it on the base of the faucet before inserting the faucet stems in the appropriate holes in the sink. If your faucet doesn't include a gasket, run a line of caulk under the faucet before installing it.

Secure the nuts holding the faucet to the sink. Tighten the nuts by hand then give them another quarter-turn with the basin wrench. Connect the supply tubes to the faucet stems. Apply Teflon paste to the shutoff valve threads, and tighten the coupling nuts to the faucet-supply stems. Do not over tighten.

Step 4: Attach the Drain Housing to the Flange

Apply caulk to the underside of the drain flange, and press it into the drain hole. Place the lock nut on the drain housing, then place the metal washer and the gasket on the housing. Screw the drain housing tightly to the flange. If the flange begins to rotate, hold it steady by inserting the plastic handle of your pliers

Step 5: Place the Pop-up Drain

Drop the pop-up drain into place, keeping the hole for the control pin toward the rear of the sink. Place the bail lever in the side hole of the drain assembly so the control pin fits through the appropriate hole in the pop-up drain.

Set the drain rod into the hole in the faucet, and attach the connecting link to the faucet rod by tightening the attached screw. Make sure the pop-up is up and the drain rod is down, then attach the bail lever to the connection link, using the V-clip. The pop-up should go down when the lever is pulled up.

Step 6: Clean the Supply Tubes and Check for Leaks

Attach the new drain extension to the P-trap. Clean the supply tubes by removing the aerator from the faucet and turning on the water. While the water is running, check for leaks. Shut the water off after you're certain there are no leaks, and replace the aerator.

Don't Kill Yourself Cleaning

Cleaning day is bad enough without having to worry about the list of strange-sounding ingredients that comprise many of the products we use. Surfactants? Phosphates? Phenols? Most of us just want our homes to look and smell nice for a few minutes before we dirty them up again.

While any cleaner will have some impact on the environment, many common household products contain extremely toxic substances that can be easily avoided. By making informed choices, we can limit our exposure to unhealthy chemicals and irritants, lessen our impact on the environment, and even save money in the process.

What Makes a Cleaning Product "Green"?
An increasing number of cleaning products now boast environmentally preferable qualities. This is great news! But how do we know which product is truly the safest and best to use? Is something better just because it says "green" and has a picture of the earth on the label?

The Consumers Union, an independent group that researches consumer marketing practices, has evaluated numerous environmental terms on product labels and found them to be meaningless. These terms include: eco safe, environmentally friendly, environmentally preferable, environmentally safe, green, and nontoxic. A product using any of these terms may actually be a good choice, but there are no standards to define them, no way to verify if the assertion is true, and no organization enforcing any of the claims. It is solely the manufacturer's choice to use any of these terms to sell a cleaner.

Only one U.S. organization, the independent nonprofit Green Seal, has developed comprehensive standards for environmentally preferable household cleaners. However, no manufacturers have actually applied for this certification, and most shoppers don't even know that certification standards exist. Until certified "green" products become commonplace, consumers are on their own to evaluate products and their environmental claims.

Home recipes
It can be daunting to choose any kind of product when we're not sure what's in it. Most of us don't have a chemist holding our hand in the cleaning aisle, and unlike food producers, cleaning product manufacturers aren't required to disclose all the ingredients. The only sure way to know what's in your sprays and scrubs is to make them yourself from simple ingredients. This is also great for the wallet — homemade cleaners are almost always significantly cheaper than even the cheapest manufactured brands.

I know what you're thinking: I barely have the time to scrub out the oven, let alone make the scrub! It takes a little forethought, but most effective home recipes can be mixed in a minute or two — in fact, many require no preparation at all — and the peace of mind is worth it. Plus, you can save time and space by using many of the same staple ingredients over and over for a variety of purposes. White vinegar, baking soda, borax, olive oil, and washing soda are all commonly used in home recipes, and odds are you already have many of these items in your kitchen or laundry room. Baking soda alone can be used for dozens and dozens of jobs, from scrubbing counters and deodorizing the fridge to freshening carpets and clearing drains.

While home recipes are widely regarded as effective, some may require more soaking time or elbow grease than commercial cleaners. Consulting a book that explains how recipes work is highly recommended (see the resources that follow).

It is important to remember that even though you are using simple ingredients, homemade cleaners are not "nontoxic." Anything can be toxic when consumed in a large enough quantity. And a cleaner that is safe enough to eat (like lemon juice) can be still irritating to the eyes or skin. Always use established recipes from a reputable source, store mixed cleaners away from children, and label your concoctions in case of accidental ingestion.

One final word of caution: Never, ever mix ammonia with chlorine bleach. (More on these ingredients below.)

Commercial Products
Most of us rely on the convenience of commercially packaged products around the house. While blanket claims of being "green" are difficult to substantiate, a few guidelines can help in making informed product choices.

First, choose and use disinfectants wisely. Unlike a cleaner which removes dirt, a disinfectant kills microorganisms (such as bacteria) which may spread disease. Many people are led to believe that antibacterial products produce a "cleaner" clean, but it is actually regular soap that removes dirt. A disinfectant renders a surface sterile. These harsher products should be used sparingly, especially if you have a septic system, which relies on bacteria to function properly. One of the most common disinfectants, chlorine bleach, contains dangerous chemical compounds that are extremely toxic to human health. Oxygen bleaches have not been proven to have the same disinfecting capabilities as chlorine bleach. Instead, look for a hydrogen peroxide bleach, and remember to leave it on for at least ten minutes to kill germs — merely spraying and wiping will expose you to harsh chemicals without necessarily getting the job done.

Another good rule of thumb is to support companies that disclose all ingredients. Shopping for cleaners would be a lot easier on everyone if we knew what was in them. A few progressive companies including Ecover and Seventh Generation claim to disclose all ingredients, even though they are not required by law to do so — a model for other manufacturers.

Similarly, choose products that give the most specific information on ingredients and environmental claims. The term "biodegradable" suggests that a product will decompose in nature, but doesn't indicate the rate or extent of decomposition. It is better to choose a product that states that it "biodegrades completely in three days." The same goes for individual ingredients — "citrus-derived fragrance" is better than just "fragrance."

Perhaps most crucially, avoid products that are highly toxic to the environment, human health, or both. Here is a short list of problematic ingredients that are easily avoided, compiled from Green Seal, Seventh Generation, and Washington Toxics Coalition resources:


* Corrosives. Avoid products labeled "Danger. Corrosive." Corrosives include some of the most dangerous chemicals in the home, such as lye, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, and sulfuric acid — the active agents in many drain cleaners, oven cleaners, and toilet cleaners. These chemicals can burn the skin, cause internal burns if ingested, and explode if used incorrectly.

* Chlorine bleach. Chlorine bleach is irritating to the lungs and eyes and contains trace amounts of organochlorines — extremely persistent and toxic chemical compounds known to cause cancer in animals, among other serious health problems. When mixed with ammonia, chlorine forms a potentially deadly gas.

* Ammonia. Many home recipes and commercial products contain ammonia, but it is a strong eye and lung irritant and should particularly be avoided by anyone with asthma or other lung sensitivities.

* Phosphates. Phosphates are naturally occurring minerals used in automatic dishwashing detergents as a water softener. When released back into the environment, phosphates can cause algae blooms in lakes and ponds that kill aquatic life. Look for "phosphate-free" dishwashing detergents, try a homemade recipe of half borax and half washing soda instead, or skip the dishwasher and use a dishpan and regular dish soap instead.

* Petroleum products. Many surfactants (cleaning agents) are refined petroleum products that are linked with health problems and require environmentally harsh methods to extract and distill. Seventh Generation estimates that "the average household contains 63 different synthetic organic chemical products which total approximately 10 gallons of potentially hazardous petrochemicals." A few specific ones to avoid: diethylene glycol, nonylphenol ethxylate, and butyl cellosolve.

As a final tip, if you're unsure of a product, Mark Petruzzi of Green Seal recommends that you call the toll-free phone number on the package and request as much information as possible. "Don't be afraid to ask specific questions like, 'Can I use this around asthmatics?' or 'Does this contain endocrine disruptors?'" he advises. If a company does not provide a satisfactory answer, decide whether it's worth doing business with that company.

Cleaning your home shouldn't be a HAZMAT operation. With a little care, common sense, and a few basic ingredients, your home can be sparkly clean and healthy — without breaking the bank.

How To Get A Job

1. Network. The best companies to work for tend to rely heavily (up to 40%) on employee referrals. Make a list of all of your friends, relatives, and acquaintances. Call each one and ask them if they know of any openings that they could recommend you for. Don't be too humble or apologetic; tell them what you've been looking for, but let them know that you're flexible and that if they have any suggestions, you're open to them. This is not the time to be picky about jobs; a connection can often get your foot in the door, and you can negotiate pay or switch positions later, once you've gained experience and established your reputation.

2. Volunteer. If you aren't already, start volunteering for an organization that focuses on something that you're passionate about. You may end up doing boring or easy work in the beginning, but as you stick around and demonstrate your commitment, you'll be given more responsibilities. Not only will you be helping others, but you'll also be gaining references. You should emphasize your volunteer experience on your resume, as companies that treat their employees well tend to favor candidates who help the community somehow.

3. Develop your personal elevator pitch. Many structured interviews, particularly those at large companies, start with a question like "tell me about yourself." The interviewer doesn't really want you to go back to grade school and talk about your childhood. This is a specific question with a specific answer...in two minutes or so, the interviewer wants to get you to relax and loosen out your vocal cords, understand your background, your accomplishments, why you want to work at XYZ company and what your future goals are.

4. Prepare for a behavioral interview. You might be asked to describe problems you've encountered in the past and how you handled them, or you'll be given a hypothetical situation and asked what you would do. They'll basically want to know how you'll perform when faced with obstacles in the position you're interviewing for. Be able to give honest, detailed examples from your past, even if the question is hypothetical (e.g. "I would contact the customer directly, based on my past experience in a different situation in which the customer was very pleased to receive a phone call from the supervisor"). You might find yourself listing facts--if so, remember that in this kind of interview, you need to tell a story. Some questions you might be asked are:

* "Describe a time you had to work with someone you didn't like."

* "Tell me about a time when you had to stick by a decision you had made, even though it made you very unpopular."

* "Give us an example of something particularly innovative that you have done that made a difference in the workplace."

* "How would you handle an employee who's consistently late?"

5. Research the company. Don't just "do an Internet search, memorize their mission, and be done with it." If it's a retail company, visit a few of their stores, observe the customers, and even strike up a few conversations. Talk to existing employees--ask them what it's like working there, how long the position has been open, and what you can do to increase your chances of getting it. Become familiar with the history of the company. Who started it? Where? Who runs it now? Be creative, and do whatever you think the other candidates don't have the guts to do.

6. Settle down. If you've moved around a lot, be prepared to offer a good reason for it. Otherwise, you'll need to make a good case for why you want to stick around in the area where the job is located. A company doesn't want to hire someone with wanderlust who still wants to relocate. Be prepared to outline why you are where you are today, how long you intend to stay there, and why. Give specific reasons like "This county has the best school systems in the entire state, and I have a daughter who might find the cure for cancer" or "I was drawn to this area because it's at the cutting edge of innovation for this business and I want to be a part of that." The more details, names, and specifics, the better.

7. Make a list of work-related skills you'd like to learn. Your employer will be interested in hearing about how you intend to become a better employee. Think about which skills will make you more competent in the position you're applying for. Public speaking, project management, team leading, and computer programs are usually beneficial. Find some books and upcoming conferences that would significantly improve your abilities. In an interview, tell the employer what you're reading and learning, and that you'd like to continue doing so.

8. Cold call. Locate a specific person who can help you (usually the human resources or hiring manager at a company or organization you're interested in). Call that person and ask if they are hiring, but do not become discouraged if they are not. Ask what kind of qualifications they look for or if they have apprentice or government sponsored work programs. Ask if you can send your resume indicating what field you want to go into. Indicate whether you would accept a lesser job and work up.

* Reflect after each phone call on what went well and what did not. You may need to write out some standard answers on your list of skills so you can speak fluently. You may need to get some additional training to break into your chosen field. None of this means you cannot get a good job, only that you need to become further prepared to do so.

9. Change your attitude. There's a difference between making phone calls and going to interviews thinking "I'm looking for a job" versus "I'm here to do the work you need to have done".[2] When you're looking to get a job, you're expecting someone to give something to you, so you focus on impressing them. Yes, it's important to make a good impression, but it's even more important to demonstrate your desire and ability to help. Everything that you write and say should be preceded silently by the statement "This is how I can help your business succeed."

10. Fit the job to the skills rather than the other way around. Many people search for jobs, then try to see how they can "tweak" the way they present their own skills and experiences to fit the job description. Instead, try something different. Make a list of all of your skills, determine which kinds of businesses and industries need them most (ask around for advice if you need to) and find businesses that will benefit from having you and your skills around.

Basic Car Maintenance Tips

Throughout the rest of this website you'll find in-depth articles describing in intricate detail how everything automotive works. On this page, I've simplified all that knowledge into a series of basic car maintenance tips, subdivided by category. Some tips have simple explanations right here whilst others link back to the articles in the rest of the site. If you can't find what you're looking for, try the search button at the end of the top menu. If you still can't find what you're looking for, or have a suggestion for something else I should cover, contact me using the contact button on the top menu bar.
Latest blog entry
02/13/2009 06:36 AM
Treating the symptoms instead of the cause.
So the Nanny State (England in case you were wondering) is now claiming that airbag jackets should be mandatory for motorcycle riders, because whilst riders account for only 1% of road users, they account for 20% of fatalities.
You know what, they're right. But rather than force everyone to wear a ridiculously cumbersome jacket that hinders your movement and would cause more accidents through loss of control, might it not be better to treat the cause of the problem : car drivers?

TRL323 (a report commissioned by the UK government themselves) indicates that 90% of motorcycle accidents are caused by cars driving into them. In other words, 18% of all road fatalities are caused by car drivers hitting motorcyclists.

Here's an idea - ban cellphones and enforce the ban. Remove air bags, traction control and all the other so-called "safety" devices that are put into cars to eliminate responsibility from the driver. Until motorists realize that they are accountable, and there are consequences of their actions, this statistic isn't going to change. And that won't happen until the car manufacturers stop building ridiculously cocooning living rooms on wheels.

Wheels and tires
Rotate your tires!

check your tire pressure Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tires. arrow Tyre rotation.
Clean brake dust off regularly

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.
Check your tire pressures

Check your tire pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tire pressure.
Check your tread depth

Bald, slick tires might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tires. Four new tires might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident. arrow Tread wear bars.
Engine
Check your belts

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury: arrow Interference engines
Fuel Economy

Check your tire pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tire pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tyre pressures
Checking your oil level

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here arrow Checking your oil level.
check your oil level

Checking your coolant level

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you. arrow Engine cooling systems.
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Fuel / gas
Will higher octane or premium fuel give me better gas mileage and/or more power?

No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.
Electrical
Disconnecting and reconnecting your battery

negative battery terminal If you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.
Check your battery terminals

Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.

Lights
One indicator or blinker is flashing faster than the other

negative battery terminal When you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.
Don't touch the glass when changing headlight bulbs

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.

Dash / instrument warning lights
check engine light
The check engine light.

Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (power train).
P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporation Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurized fuel system and vapor recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked.
It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device in and reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain.
If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.
service engine light
The service engine light / Maintenance Required light.

This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maintenance Required". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you.
Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.
battery warning light
The electrical fault light.

This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.
brake warning light
Brake warning light 1

Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. Unlike the single-purpose ABS warning light, the brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.
brake warning light
Brake warning light 2

If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it stays on, blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, take note. It's not doing it just to please itself.
coolant warning light
Coolant warning light

This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurized and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets deposited around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.
oil pressure warning light
Oil warning light

Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.